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When the Clothes Spoke for themselves
当服饰意蕴不言而喻(2/2)
When the Clothes Spoke for Themselves
An art exhibition last year in Los Angeles displayed “Images of Fashion From the Court of Louis XIV,” proving that Louis XIV was the world’s first fashion magazine editor-in-chief
What was in fashion then?
In those days, men dressed as fashionably as women, In fact, but for men wearing britches and a form of pantyhose and women wearing skirts and corsets, they dressed exactly the same.
Among the innovations of Louis’ court was a long, elaborate waistcoat that amounted to the first three-piece suit.
“It took us 300 years to get rid of that,” Rosenbaum said.
Another development was the oversized and elaborate coat cuff, which not only made a fashion statement but also provided an excellent place to stick all those voluminous handkerchiefs and discreet love letters.
It was a hard task to keep all of this finery clean, but that was the reason for the bundles of underwear the courtiers wore. “It kept the body soil from reaching the outer clothes,” she said.
Fashionable but uncomfortable
Though the haute couture stuff was mandatory for official court functions and amusements-Louis didn’t like unfashionable people around him-the courtiers apparently got out of them as soon as they could.
“They’d go to their [palace] rooms and change into clothes they wore there,” Rosenbaum said. These clothes were much more comfortable and loose fitting, such as a T-shaped garment that served as a French kimono.
Here they could also remove their towering, cascading wigs-another fashion of the times. Underneath, the royals and nobility wore haircuts like those in the military today.
It was also fashionable to lather one’s face with thick, white makeup, complete with artificial beauty shpts and red rouge for both women and men.
French fashion did catch on, thanks to Louis’ “fashion magazine.” French style became popular in many places because they could see what was considered “the nicest, the latest, the trendiest.”
Specialized Terms
Britches (n pl) 马裤 pants that do not cover the whole leg
Corset (n) (缩小腰围的)束腹 a tight piece of underwear worn on the middle part of a woman’s body to make her waist appear smaller
Courtier (n) 廷臣;朝臣 a companion of a queen or king in their official home
Haute couture (n) 引领流行的时尚 (French) trend-setting fashions
Vocabulary Focus
Pantyhose (n) 连身裤袜
Voluminous (adj) large and consisting of a lot of cloth
Discreet (adj) careful not to attract too much attention, especially by keeping something secret
Serve (v) to function or be used
French kimono (n) 法式长袍
Rouge (n) reddish cosmetic for coloring the cheeks
Catch on (v) to become popular
Discussion Question
Which is more important, fashionable or comfortable? Why?
Extra Exercise
1. Translate the following sentence into Chinese, ‘Among the innovations of Louis’ court was a long, elaborate waistcoat that amounted to the first three-piece suit.’
2. According to the recording, which men wears britches nowadays?

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