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名垂青史的制服
来源 21世纪报  时间 10个月前  阅读 2022 次  字体 [    ]   [收藏]  [划词   ]  评论 0 条

ZHONGSHAN city in Guangdong Province has recently applied for a world heritage status for the Mao suit. It hopes to memorize the suit's significance to China's history.

Meanwhile, in the UK, a new exhibition highlights the top ten suits that help tailor the world. Mao suit is one of them.

These iconic suits act as story-tellers, telling us not only about fashion trends, but about culture, lifestyle and human spirit.

'Gilded Palace of Sin' suit (Gram Parsons)

Gram Parsons was an American singer active in 1960s and 1970s. He pioneered the concept of a rock band playing country music. He died of a drug overdose at the age of 27.

The controversial singer's famous suit was covered with images of marijuana leaves, naked women, and a giant red cross on the back. This suit became more popular during the Vietnam war. Hippies sometimes expressed their rejection of traditional American values by using illegal drugs, especially marijuana.

The suit was designed by fashion designer Nudie Cohn, who designed Elvis Presley's gold lamé suit and created clothes for English singer Elton John. The exhibitionist, flashy style is echoed in modern designers such as Versace.

Mao suit (Mao Zedong)

In China, it is more widely known as Zhongshan Zhuang, named after Sun Yat-Sen. It earned the name "Mao suit" in the West when photographs of the leaders of the People's Republic of China first appeared in the popular press. The authentic Zhongshan Zhuang had buttons up the neck. A turned-down collar and four symmetrical pockets were later added to the design.

Chinese leaders stopped wearing these suits in the late 1990s, except on special occasions. It is still the standard attire in the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. The suit was also popular in post-colonial Tanzania, until it was replaced by the Mandela shirt.

Wartime flannel suit (Winston Churchill)

In 1940, Winston Churchill posed for a picture that made him look as much like a Chicago hoodlum as a British Prime Minister. He held a Thompson submachine gun, popular with US gangsters during Prohibition (1846 - 1966 in the US). There was also the signature cigar, the bowler hat, the spotted bow tie, and the chalk-stripe flannel suit. With this outfit, Churchill was indicating that even upper-class Englishmen would have to fight if German invaders set foot on the homeland.

The two firms that made the suit have linked up again to produce a replica that will go on display in the UK next March.

Woman's suit (Marlene Dietrich)

Radclyffe Hall, a novelist born in England, may have been the first public figure to change traditional notions of femininity by wearing a man's suit, in early 1910s. But the German actress Marlene, who was active in 1930s and 1940s, was the first global celebrity to do so. Her signature masculine attire included a suit and a top hat. Dietrich once said, "I dress for myself. Not for the image, not for the public, not for the fashion, not for men."

Madonna paid homage to Dietrich's looks and style several times throughout her career. She did so most notably in the video of Express Yourself and during the Like a Virgin performance of the Girlie Show Tour. Even Princess Diana wore elements of the classic tuxedo. Men's jackets and tuxedos also feature prominently in this season's women's collections.

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attire 服装

bowler 硬圆顶礼帽

femininity 妇女特质

flannel 法兰绒

gangster 歹徒

hoodlum 流氓阿飞

lame 金属薄片

masculine 男性化的

overdose 过量用药

Prohibition (美)禁酒令

replica 复制品

symmetrical 对称的F

tuxedo 男式礼服

Bonus points

exhibitionist: adj. 爱出风头的

Everything she does is designed to impress the boys. She's a regular exhibitionist. 她的所作所为都是为了吸引男孩子,她总是爱出风头。

pay homage to: 向……表示敬意。类似于pay tribute to

We pay homage to the genius of Shakespeare. 我们对莎士比亚的天才表示敬仰。





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